![]() ![]() Once the stain has been removed, wet the surface with clear water and sprinkle on marble polishing powder, available from a hardware or lapidary store, or your local stone dealer. Some materials will etch the finish but not leave a stain. Commercially available "smoke removers" may save time and effort.Įtch marks are caused by acids left on the surface of the stone. Older stones and smoke or fire stained fireplaces may require a thorough cleaning to restore their original appearance. Refer to the section on oil-based stains. Oil-based paints, linseed oil, putty, caulks and sealants may cause oily stains. ![]() Normally, latex and acrylic paints will not cause staining. Use only wood or plastic scrapers for removing the sludge and curdled paint. Protect yourself with rubber gloves and eye protection, and work in a well-ventilated area. Follow the manufacturer's directions for use of these products, taking care to flush the area thoroughly with clean water. Paint strippers can etch the surface of the stone re-polishing may be necessary. Do not use acids or flame tools to strip paint from stone. These strippers normally contain caustic soda or lye. Heavy paint coverage should be removed only with a commercial "heavy liquid" paint stripper available from hardware stores and paint centers. Small amounts can be removed with lacquer thinner or scraped off carefully with a razorblade. DO NOT MIX BLEACH AND AMMONIA! THIS COMBINATION CREATES A TOXIC AND LETHAL GAS!Ĭlean with bleach or hydrogen peroxide (light colored stone only!) or lacquer thinner or acetone (dark stones only!) Metal stains must be removed with a poultice.(See section on Making & Using a Poultice) Deep-seated, rusty stains are extremely difficult to remove and the stone may be permanently stained.Ĭlean with diluted (1/2 cup in a gallon of water) ammonia OR bleach OR hydrogen peroxide. Copper and bronze stains appear as green or muddy-brown and result from the action of moisture on nearby or embedded bronze, copper or brass items. Iron or rust stains are orange to brown in color and follow the shape of the staining object such as nails, bolts, screws, cans, flower pots, metal furniture. Indoors, clean with12% hydrogen peroxide (hair bleaching strength) and a few drops of ammonia. Outdoors, with the sources removed, normal sun and rain action will generally bleach out the stains. ![]() (coffee, tea, fruit, tobacco, paper, food, urine, leaves, bark, bird droppings) May cause a pinkish-brown stain and may disappear after the source of the stain has been removed. Clean gently with a soft, liquid cleanser with bleach OR household detergent OR ammonia OR mineral spirits OR acetone. (grease, tar, cooking oil, milk, cosmetics)Īn oil-based stain will darken the stone and normally must be chemically dissolved so the source of the stain can be flushed or rinsed away. Types of Stains and First Step Cleaning Actions The following sections describe the types of stains that you may have to deal with and appropriate household chemicals to use and how to prepare and apply a poultice to remove the stain. Deep-seated or stubborn stains may require using a poultice or calling in a professional. Where is the stain located? Is it near a plant, a food service area, an area where cosmetics are used? What color is it? What is the shape or pattern? What goes on in the area around the stain? Surface stains can often be removed by cleaning with an appropriate cleaning product or household chemical. If you don't know what caused the stain, play detective. Identifying the type of stain on the stone surface is the key to removing it. If the stain remains, refer to the section in this brochure on stain removal. Dry the area thoroughly with a soft cloth. Flush the area with plain water and mild soap and rinse several times. Don't wipe the area, it will spread the spill. I'd go over the cymbals with acetone or lacquer thinner (being careful as they are both hazardous to work with) first to try to remove the clear protective finish and see if you can "bare the bronze" before trying to age it.Blot the spill with a paper towel immediately. I'm not sure what the clearcoat is (lacquer? Polyester? wax?) but removing it should make your cymbals react quicker with the various methods cited above (as well as reacting quicker to just regular day to day exposure to the oxygen in the atmosphere). Eventually that clearcoat will get removed from cleaning and general wear but it will probably take a while. They've been doing this for about the past 30 years and it makes cymbals made since that time slower to build up a patina than older ones did. Most of the major brands of cymbals have had a clearcoat put on them at the factory to help protect the shiny finish. I just learned that human sweat will do a good job of quickly putting a patina on a cymbal.sort of greenish highlights over a whitish base and you can see where the arm hairs were. ![]()
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